Victoria Beckham chooses glamour over fireworks for Paris vogue week | Vogue

Can a Spice Woman pull off French-girl stylish? Victoria Beckham has received over vogue sceptics in New York and London, however for her first catwalk present in virtually three years she upped the ante with a leap to the quintessential fashion capital.

“Paris is the last word dream,” mentioned Beckham earlier than a present staged within the honeyed stone cloisters of the baroque Val de Grace church. “It’s a pinch-me second to be right here.” Though the designer insisted she was extra excited than nervous, this can be a difficult time for her model. A piece-from-home zeitgeist has been an in poor health wind for a reputation which trades on jet-set glamour. Costs have needed to come down with a view to enhance gross sales. And the superstar circus across the Beckham title – invaluable for bringing attract and piquancy to a comparatively small vogue label – had threatened to overshadow the present with rumours of a ‘feud’ between Beckham and her daughter-in-law.

Models present creations for the Victoria Beckham Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show during the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week.
Fashions current creations for the Victoria Beckham Spring-Summer time 2023 vogue present through the Paris Womenswear Vogue Week. {Photograph}: Julien de Rosa/AFP/Getty Photos

The designer selected quiet glamour over catwalk fireworks for her Paris debut. Satin attire have been lower on the bias for a slinky stroll, suspended on delicate spaghetti straps for drama, and fringed with silk tassels to kiss naked shoulders. Beckham believes that her buyer desires what she herself desires: “A horny costume that’s straightforward to put on. That’s what I like finest, and I’m not going to agonise over it.” All was tasteful and serene within the entrance row, too, the place the assist of Beckham’s son and daughter-in-law, Brooklyn and Nicola Peltz Beckham, drew a line beneath gossip.

Brooklyn Beckham, Nicola Peltz Beckham, Romeo Beckham, Edward Enninful, Harper Beckham, David Beckham and Anna Wintour at the Victoria Beckham show.
Brooklyn Beckham, Nicola Peltz Beckham, Romeo Beckham, Edward Enninful, Harper Beckham, David Beckham and Anna Wintour on the Victoria Beckham present. {Photograph}: Darren Gerrish/WireImage for Victoria Beckham

“A yr in the past, we weren’t ready to do a present,” mentioned Beckham. “We needed to construct an entire new staff. As an impartial model, to have come by the pandemic and to be right here, accepted by the French vogue neighborhood, seems like an enormous deal.” Marie Leblanc, who joined the model as CEO in 2019, forecasts break-even for subsequent yr.

“It feels extra trendy to not bury myself beneath wardrobe now,” mentioned Beckham. That is vogue week converse for the oldest of adages: intercourse sells. A body-conscious aesthetic now runs by the Victoria Beckham model, from a lower-priced VB Physique line of stretch, block-colour jersey attire to the lingerie styling on the Paris vogue week catwalk, the place love-heart formed cutouts reveal flashes of naked pores and skin or black latex.

One of the lingerie-styled pieces in Victoria Beckham’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection.
One of many lingerie-styled items in Victoria Beckham’s Spring-Summer time 2023 assortment. {Photograph}: Julien de Rosa/AFP/Getty Photos

Lara Barrio, beforehand at Salvatore Ferragamo, was just lately appointed design director on the model, however Beckham mentioned she was “nonetheless there within the studio on a regular basis. I work on the gathering each step of the way in which. This look is what I wish to put on.” For the present, she wore a black model of a inexperienced draped and slashed robe worn on the catwalk by Bella Hadid.

US model Bella Hadid on the catwalk.
US mannequin Bella Hadid on the catwalk. {Photograph}: Julien de Rosa/AFP/Getty Photos

Though Beckham credit spending time in Miami “the place ladies with all totally different physique shapes love to point out them off” with reigniting her love of eye-catching attire, she didn’t embrace the transfer towards physique range that has been a characteristic of a lot of vogue month. Backstage, the designer defended her resolution to forged solely sample-sized fashions by saying {that a} present “is all about creating that character for the season,” and insisted that the casting was “various and fascinating” in different methods.

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